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In
many
ways,
the
work
of
a
critic
is
easy.
We
risk
very
little,
yet
enjoy
a
position
over
those
who
offer
up
their
work
and
their
selves
to
our
judgment.
We
thrive
on
negative
criticism,
which
is
fun
to
write
and
to
read.
But
the
bitter
truth
we
critics
must
face,
is
that
in
the
grand
scheme
of
things,
the
average
piece
of
junk
is
probably
more
meaningful
than
our
criticism
designating
it
so.
But
there
are
times
when
a
critic
truly
risks
something,
and
that
is
in
the
discovery
and
defense
of
the
new.
The
world
is
often
unkind
to
new
talent,
new
creations.
The
new
needs
friends.
Last
night,
I
experienced
something
new:
an
extraordinary
meal
from
a
singularly
unexpected
source.
To
say
that
both
the
meal
and
its
maker
have
challenged
my
preconceptions
about
fine
cooking
is
a
gross
understatement.
They
have
rocked
me
to
my
core.
In
the
past,
I
have
made
no
secret
of
my
disdain
for
Chef
Gusteau's
famous
motto,
"Anyone
can
cook".
But
I
realize,
only
now
do
I
truly
understand
what
he
meant.
Not
everyone
can
become
a
great
artist;
but
a
great
artist
can
come
from
anywhere.
It
is
difficult
to
imagine
more
humble
origins
than
those
of
the
genius
now
cooking
at
Gusteau's,
who
is,
in
this
critic's
opinion,
nothing
less
than
the
finest
chef
in
France.
I
will
be
returning
to
Gusteau's
soon,
hungry
for
more.
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